this is the one soup here that's truly fit for purpose. no trickery, no possibility for injury, no problems with tense, no esoteric ingredients, no *shenanigans*. this is a plain, hearty soup that effectively nourishes the hungry who have nowhere else to go. in its simplicity, it is elevated, but it does not betray its humble roots. what better stand-in for london could there be, on this neath-spanning menu?